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Interview with 29 South Restaurant

First Published in the St. Augustine Record
Publication Date: 05/21/09

Dear Readers,

Today we begin a new, occasional series in which I will interview local chefs and other people involved in the world of food. In the next few months, you will be reading excerpts of conversations with locals who are changing the way the First Coast eats and thinks about food.

The first installment in this series is an interview with Chef Scotty Schwartz of 29 South Restaurant in Fernandina Beach. When I first dined at 29 South, I was blown away by the freshness of the food, and no wonder -- the eatery features a beautifully tended garden in the backyard that supplies the kitchen with a great abundance of organic produce. In addition, Schwartz has cultivated an impressive network of regional family farmers, and his relationships have paid off. They provide him with everything from naturally raised Berkshire pork to local honey to dairy products from southern Georgia. The creative, locally-sourced menu features dressed up comfort food bursting with flavor. The crispy fried green tomatoes with fresh goat cheese and roasted sweet red peppers may be the best I've ever had, and a mesmerizing dish of grilled scallops and Mayport shrimp in a pesto sauce was served with creamy polenta and a wonderful grilled vegetable ratatouille. It was so good I asked for more bread to sop up the last of the sauce and veggies. But perhaps the most memorable dish I tried was a simple salad of mixed greens that Schwartz's wife, Nan, had just picked out back in the garden. The greens were tossed with a delicate champagne vinaigrette and house-grown radishes -- stunning proof that fresh, high quality ingredients need little fuss to shine. It's a delicious testament to Schwartz's commitment to seeking out the best local ingredients and letting the food speak for itself. And it makes for an extraordinary dining experience.

Name: Scott Schwartz

Restaurant: 29 South (www.29SouthRestaurant.com)

1. How would you describe your style of cooking?

Modern American with Southern Influences

2. What is your favorite ingredient of the moment?

Whatever Mother Nature provides for me at the moment. Lately, DelKat Family Farm pork belly, Romanesco, and lots of beets and fennel.

3. How do you incorporate seasonal and local ingredients into your menu?

We adopt a "Use it while we can" mentality. We talk with farmers that grow for us and develop crop plans, as well as discuss what we can grow in our on site garden. Then we build our menu around what is available. As new things arrive that would be short-lived through the season we utilize them in nightly specials.

4. When you don't eat in your own restaurant, what's a special place where you like to dine?

The Spotted Pig in NYC. I crave it fortnightly; regionally, Biscotti's, B.B.'s and Bistro Aix.

5. What's your favorite thing to make at home?

Braised short ribs and polenta

6. What three ingredients do you always have in your refrigerator?

Short ribs, olives, lots of butter

7. What role do you think chefs should play in educating the public about foods that are good for diners' health, have a positive impact on the health of the planet and are respectful and fair to those that produce them?

I think chefs have a huge responsibility because we are the experts in food, and our language is more accessible than that of scientists. We have the responsibility to promote what's best for our clientele. We should also take responsibility as to how that might affect our planet. Every ingredient has a cost. Although monetary costs are our first concern, we should make the environmental cost the next. Why serve a fruit from Chile just because we can get it? In this day and age of jet set transportation, anything is available anytime we want it. The environmental impact of transportation should outweigh the "want" of that ingredient by the chef. When we as chefs embrace the procurement of local and seasonal products we give up the ability to cook with our egos. We cook what Mother Nature gives us, not what is available at a farm halfway around the world. I'm not saying everything needs to be local. We don't grow truffles in Fernandina Beach and it is not going to stop me from putting them on a menu, but it is the exception not the rule.

8. How do you see the future of the North Florida food scene?

I would like to see it move in a direction of sustainability. We have an amazing climate for growing food and a large amount of product available at our doorstep. More chefs should support local farms; even if it is just one ingredient, it would make a major impact. There is nothing better than shaking the hand of the family that raised your pigs. The impact of that can be seen in the pride our staff has in selling and preparing our products.

9. What is one food that you tried and would never eat again?

Fermented herring from Iceland -- almost couldn't swallow it.

10. What is your first food memory?

Cooking with my mom. She was an amazing cook with a very diverse repertoire.

11. What type of restaurant are we desperately missing in North Florida?

We need more ethnic restaurants and markets. The more food diversity our community has the better. It is incredible the impact this has on the chef community. 

Saving the Seminole pumpkin

First Published in the

St. Augustine Record

Publication Date: 04/30/09

Sometimes finding your next favorite food can happen right in your own back yard.

Local Master Gardener Guerry Bradley has been busy planting Seminole pumpkins in his garden for a late summer harvest, and he's very excited. Seminole pumpkins are an endangered variety of pear-shaped squash that once grew throughout our state and were widely planted by the various Native Americans and colonists who inhabited Florida, particularly along the banks of the Everglades. Botanist John C. Gifford named the Seminole pumpkin one of the five plants "essential to Indians and early settlers of Florida."

The Creek, Miccosukee, and Calusa people (who today we collectively call the Seminoles) prized their delicious flesh for eating, but also their hardiness in a state in which heat, moisture and pests can devastate many crops. Their hard outer shell makes them naturally mildew-, pest- and disease-resistant, while the fact that the vines like to climb helped those early farmers keep them off the moist South Florida ground where insects, foraging animals and rot often ravaged gardens.

The pumpkins are such good climbers, in fact, that the Creek word for them, "chassahowitska," means "hanging pumpkin." The natives usually planted them at the base of trees to allow their vines to climb and the fruit to hang like a Christmas ornament, ready for the picking. The pumpkins do require some space to spread their vines, but once they take hold, you will be rewarded with a plentiful bounty.

"They're the easiest things to grow, and they were the most productive plants in my garden last year," Bradley said recently. One packet of seeds, which can be purchased at www.southernexposure.com, can yield 30 pumpkins.

The flesh of the Seminole pumpkin is bright and firm with a sweet, delicate flavor and can be prepared in a number of ways, including baked, pureed or transformed into the most flavorful pumpkin pie you've ever had.

Food writer Amy Goldman calls baked Seminole pumpkin "the treat of a lifetime." I roasted a few of Bradley's pumpkins last year in the oven with just a touch of butter, maple syrup and pecans so as not to overpower their own flavor, and they made an extraordinary side dish. Bradley makes an excellent Seminole pumpkin dessert that is fragrant with cinnamon and spice but still showcases the delectable flavor of the squash.

Natives in South Florida still value the squash so much that they include authentic pumpkin fry bread in many of their contemporary ceremonies. It's even on the menu, along with other traditional dishes, at the restaurant in the Miccosukee Indian Village on the Tamiami Trail. Nonetheless, the pumpkins are rarely cultivated today because other varieties have become popular and bland, canned pumpkin is a cheap and convenient alternative. Still, the Seminole pumpkin's natural qualities and ecological adaptations make it a perfect vegetable for a curious gardener or food lover to grow in our region and I encourage you to give them a try and help bring these disappearing natives back to the table. They should be planted in April or May and can be harvested in about 60 days with little effort. Plus, because of their tough outer skin, they will hold for up to a year! I myself have decided to give it a go in my own backyard. For those of you who are a bit nervous about planting them, Guerry has even kindly offered to answer any concerns you might have. You can contact him at tatsbradley@yahoo.com.

Jumpstart your kitchen renaissance

First Published in the St. Augustine Record 

Publication Date: 03/19/09

It seems to always be the case that when people start feeling the pinch of rough economic times, they dine out less and cook at home more often.

When times get tough, the tough get cooking. It's an easy way to trim your budget and experiment a little with recipes you've been collecting and meaning to get around to trying since the Clinton years. (Don't worry -- we all do it!)

But here's the thing: It doesn't take that much time or money to put together a healthy, memorable meal the whole family will love, and with a little imagination, you can even transform those leftovers into a brand new meal. The main thing to focus on is stocking your fridge and pantry with a few key ingredients that can be utilized in a number of ways to enhance your dishes.

Good olive oil (DON'T cook without it), fresh garlic, fresh (or frozen when not in season, but rarely canned) fruits and vegetables, salt and freshly ground pepper, eggs and even humble cuts of meat like bacon, chicken legs and thighs and pork chops work well to add lots of flavor to simple dishes and won't break the bank.

The following is a list of ideas -- I won't call them recipes because they are more like collected brainstorms without precise directions or measurements--to help you jumpstart your kitchen renaissance.

1. Homemade hummus: In a food processor, puree garlic, olive oil, and a few sprigs of parsley, add chickpeas and a pinch of salt, and blend until smooth. Add water to reach desired consistency.

2. Grilled vegetables: Chop bell peppers, onions, zucchini, squash, mushrooms and eggplant coarsely, lightly coat with olive oil, salt and pepper and mix. Broil in oven until slightly charred. Toss with a little more olive oil, white balsamic vinegar and fresh chives. Great with hummus.

3. Bacon wrapped dates: Slightly cook bacon on rack in oven, remove from heat and cool. Cut into small pieces and wrap around pitted dates. Place on previously soaked skewers and broil until bacon is crispy.

4. Gambas al ajillo: Saute crushed garlic, chopped parsley, a little crushed red pepper flakes, and fresh, local shrimp in olive oil. Season with salt for a terrific classic Spanish dish.

5. Quick veggie tacos: Toast corn tortillas on warm skillet, fill with slightly smashed pinto beans and top with shredded cabbage, tomatoes, onions, diced jalapeos, avocado, cilantro and a squirt of lime.

6. Country trout: Place a slice of thick cut bacon into the belly of a cleaned farm raised trout, dust lightly with flour, and fry in olive oil. Seriously.

7. Perfect pesto: In a food processor, puree basil, pine nuts, garlic, olive oil, a pinch of salt, and freshly grated Parmesan cheese. Toss on pasta or smear on anything else.

8. Coconut rice: Cook jasmine rice with a handful of shredded coconut. When cooked, toss with chopped cilantro and diced Roma tomatoes.

9. Steak sandwich: Season a ribeye steak with salt and pepper and grill or broil until desired doneness. Remove from heat and slice across grain. Place on baguette with arugula and thinly sliced onion or grilled cubanelle peppers or Spanish piquillo (red roasted) peppers.

10. The best oatmeal you've never had: Cook oatmeal (preferably steel cut) with milk, then add dark chocolate and a pinch of cinnamon and cayenne pepper. Stir and devour.

11. Eggs and potatoes: Make your own French fries in olive oil, then top with two eggs fried in a separate pan with a little olive oil. Dig in and let the yolk stream out over the crispy potatoes. Simple and so satisfying.

12. Braised chicken: Season chicken thighs and legs with salt and pepper and fry until slightly browned in olive oil. Remove from pan and add chopped onions and cook until soft. Add white wine, crushed garlic, and a couple of piquillo peppers. Bring to a faint boil, then reduce to low and add chicken. Let simmer until chicken is so soft it can easily fall off the bone. Serve with yellow rice.

13. Garbanzos: cook chopped onions and a little garlic in a few teaspoons of olive oil until soft, then mix in a can of chickpeas and dust with cumin. Throw in a bag of baby spinach and stir until wilted. Season with salt.

14. More garbanzos: cook chopped onions and a little garlic in a few teaspoons of olive oil until soft, then mix in a can of chickpeas, dust with cumin, and add a handful of raisins and some pinenuts.

15. Pinchos morunos: Chop a few pork chops into cubes, toss with olive oil, oregano, cumin, pimenton (smoked Spanish paprika), salt and crushed garlic and broil on presoaked skewers.

16. Roasted root vegetables: Cut carrots, sweet potatoes and beets and toss with salt, pepper, a little olive oil and rosemary. Bake in oven.

17. Tuna like never before: Mix a can of good quality albacore tuna packed in olive oil with capers, chopped onion, diced Roma tomatoes, green olives, basil, an anchovy (chopped), and a can of white beans. Serve on a bed of lettuce with a toasted baguette.

18. Buy your favorite rotisserie chicken. Shred leftover meat and combine with mayonnaise, curry powder, raisins, pecans and scallions for chicken salad deluxe.

19. Buy your favorite rotisserie chicken. Shred leftover meat and set aside. Boil bones with onions and carrots until stock forms, remove bones and return meat to stock, then add noodles and cook until tender. Season chicken soup with salt and pepper.

20. Mango Madness: Slice a ripe mango into pieces. Sprinkle cayenne pepper and salt over mango, drizzle lime juice, and mix gently.  

Big heart in Hastings

First Published in The St. Augustine Record

Publication Date: 02/19/09

Loretta Smith doesn't understand the meaning of the word "no."

"An older lady called me up the other day, talking about how cold she was with this weather we've had lately, no heater in the house. I knew I had to help her out," she said. "I gave her a few of my blankets and a space heater. I couldn't stand to think of her in that cold house alone."

It's that kind of selfless attitude that has made Smith one of Hastings most well-liked residents -- or maybe it's her good cooking. For the past four years, she has organized a free Thanksgiving dinner for the community's underprivileged citizens and farm workers.

"The Good Lord has called me to serve," Smith said. And serve she does, with more than 300 people being fed this past Thanksgiving in what was her largest turnout yet. "It just keeps getting bigger and better."

Smith, who was born in San Mateo, just west of the county line in Putnam County, grew up working the fields in our area with her family.

"Daddy was a crew leader and Momma worked hard too, but my favorite memories of her was of her cooking. I remember waking up before the sun came up and going out to the fields to start the day, then watching her come out to deliver breakfast in our old beat-up station wagon. You knew it meant good food was coming," she said. "We would stop, two at a time, and have breakfast and sit on the back bumper of the car. She came out with real dishes and silverware, and we'd get grits and all kinds of good things, and then when everyone had eaten, she'd disappear, only to have her show up again around lunchtime. It was the best feeling."

Smith's family, like many others at the time, followed the seasons and headed north in the summers to harvest wherever there was work.

"We'd move up through the Carolinas, into Virginia, even up to New York. It was hard work, but it was a good life," she said. "My parents taught me that hard work and discipline were important. They trained me well. I still am early to rise and to get to work."

Moving around each summer from farm to farm might seem tough on a kid, but she and her siblings got to keep the money they earned and bought new school clothes with it. Plus there was always fresh food to eat -- sweet summer corn, snap peas, tomatoes, sweet potatoes, green beans and other crops.

"We ate whatever was in season. Momma made a dish in the summer with fresh corn. She would cut the kernels off and then scrape the cob to let that milk out, and fry it all up in a skillet with a little bacon fat. It wasn't quite fried and it wasn't quite creamed corn, it was just good! Sometimes she would add tomatoes, rice, even some chicken. She was very creative with whatever we had available," she said.

"As a treat, she'd make sweet potato fries with cinnamon sugar, pineapple upside down cake, ambrosia or homemade donuts. She'd punch out a hole in the middle of the biscuit dough with a bottle cap. Sometimes she made this dish that wasn't really a soup or a stew. You'd just throw all your favorite things in a big old pot--a turkey neck, tomatoes, okra, corn, macaroni--and just let it all cook slowly. I think Rachael Ray calls a dish like this that she makes 'Stoup,' but this was way before Rachael Ray. Yes indeed, Momma taught me how to feed people."

Smith wants to share her blessings with others.

"There is something about food -- it's that spirit and desire to sit down with anyone and share a meal that brings people together. Sharing and fellowship, it just feels good to do good things," she said.

Smith plans on organizing another dinner in May, but is looking for help to defray the cost of feeding so many people.

"I'm hoping to get some community sponsorship to make this possible on a more regular basis. It would be my dream to do this once a month. You know, get a van and deliver a big pot of 'stoup' to the migrant camps or out to the field workers. They'd see me coming -- it would be like Momma's station wagon."

Smith has received some limited food and monetary donations in the past from local businesses, organizations and individuals, but she is searching for added assistance because of the current economic downturn.

"There are a lot of folks in need right now," she said. "People feel better when they have a good meal. They can work harder and it gives them a sense of worth. When I cook for them I put love into it, just like my Momma did. I think that's why they call it soul food. You put your heart and soul into it."

To donate food or money to the upcoming dinner, call Smith at 209-6080, ext. 4071.

Ambrosia

My recipe for this southern classic was inspired by my conversation with Smith. Traditionally, ambrosia features oranges, pineapple, and coconut, though Smith's mother would add cherries to the mix. In my version, and in keeping with the seasons, I've substituted Plant City strawberries for the cherries and added homemade whipped cream spiked with vanilla to add a little sophistication.

1 pint Plant City strawberries, chopped

2 cups canned chopped pineapple, juice drained

2 seedless oranges, peeled and cut into small segments

1/4 cup sugar

3/4 cup coconut flakes

2 cups heavy cream

1 vanilla bean, scrape beans out with a knife (or 1 teaspoon real vanilla extract)

1/2 cup sugar

In a well sized bowl, combine the first six ingredients and toss gently. Adjust sugar. Chill in refrigerator. With a mixer, combine the last three ingredients and whip the cream until soft peaks form. Spoon fruit into serving dishes and top with a generous dollop of whipped cream and serve immediately. Serves 4.  

Dinner Benefits Harvest of Hope Foundation

Slow Food First Coast invites the public to attend a fundraising dinner March 5 to benefit the Harvest of Hope Foundation (www.harvestofhope.net).

Harvest of Hope is a nonprofit organization that works to assist migrant farm workers with emergency aid.

The benefit will be held at Johnny's Kitchen in Hastings, with doors opening at 6 p.m. for a social hour and dinner being served at 7 p.m.

"Expect to be well-fed that night," commented Johnny Barnes, owner of the popular eatery. "I plan on putting together a menu using only St. Johns County-based ingredients. It's going to be fabulous. We want to spotlight the wonderful foods that our region produces and at the same time draw attention to the hard work of the individuals that bring us this bounty."

The dinner will coincide with the Harvest of Hope Fest, to be held at the St. Johns County Fairgrounds March 6 through March 8. The festival is expected to attract thousands of people with its musical acts, but the message of compassion for the nation's migrant community will be front and center.

"We want to heighten awareness of the plight of migrant farm workers in this country and raise money for programs and services they might not get anywhere else.," explains Harvest of Hope president Phillip Kellerman. "We distribute funds for everything from food and clothing to medical emergencies, as well as educational scholarships, to the neediest and often most overlooked among us."

One hundred percent of the proceeds from the dinner will benefit the Harvest of Hope Foundation, and seating is limited to 100 people. Tickets are $25 per person and can be purchased by calling Barnes at 692-1800.

For those not able to attend the dinner but wanting to help, contributions to Harvest of Hope are also appreciated.

"What could be better than eating well and knowing you are making a difference in the lives of the folks that harvested your food?" Barnes remarked. "This is a chance for the community to give back and recognize the often unappreciated hard work that farm workers contribute to each of us."

Slow Food First Coast is a nonprofit organization that promotes local food production, the preservation of our community's culinary and cultural heritage, and public education and discourse on a system of food production and consumption that supports equity, sustainability and quality.

Slow Food is a global, grassroots movement with thousands of members around the world that links the pleasure of food with a commitment to community and the environment.

For information, e-mail rvilladoniga@yahoo.com or go to www.slowfoodusa.org.

New Year, New Foods

First Published in the St. Augustine Record on 15 January 2009 as "Taco joint on food list of 10 musts for new year." 

I think it's safe to say that most of us are happy 2008 is over. There were ups and there were downs, but as we turn the page into 2009, let's start on an upbeat note. Here are 10 food-related things you shouldn't miss this new year, in no particular order:

1. Tacos at Mi Carnal Taqueria

If you haven't dined at this authentic gem of an eatery yet, be forewarned: the tacos are affordably addictive. The chicken, beef, and pork tacos are simple masterpieces of genuine Mexican street food. Throw in some refried beans, guacamole and a Mexican Coke (made with sugar cane), and you have a spectacularly filling meal that won't break the bank. My favorite: the delicious tacos al pastor (pork stewed with pineapple for a complex and unique flavor). Tienda y Taqueria Mi Carnal, 2602 U.S. 1 South, St. Augustine, 794-5175.

2. Benton's Bacon

Since we're talking pork, let's focus on a food that makes everything taste better--bacon. Have you tried Mo's Bacon Bars from Vosges' Chocolates (www.vosges-chocolate.com)?

Just when you naively thought it couldn't get better than peanut butter and chocolate, these geniuses discover the magical fusion of chocolate and bacon, of all things. Just heavenly. And my favorite bacon: the old-fashioned kind from Benton's smokehouse in Madisonville, Tenn. -- a miraculous union of hickory smoke (slowly applied for up to 72 hours) and glorious pork belly. BLTs have never been better than the ones I make with Benton's smoky, thick-sliced, meaty bacon. http://bentonshams.com

3. Pierogies at Gaufres & Goods

I know, I know, lay off the pork product, but just one more--I promise.

Do yourself a favor and sample the delightfully plump, tender, homemade Polish dumplings at Gaufres & Goods, downtown St. Augustine's most unique culinary destination. Its Old World menu eclectically combines dishes from Poland, Greece and Belgium, including fluffy, crisp waffles and potato-stuffed pierogies that are the stars of this temple of comfort food. Try the pierogies topped with sauteed onions and -- what else? --bacon, and you won't be disappointed. Gaufres & Goods, 9A and 9B Aviles St., St. Augustine, 829-5770.

4. Sorghum Syrup

Introduced to the U.S. in 1853 to help reduce our demand for imported sweeteners like sugarcane, sorghum is a wild grass native to Africa that is still grown in 26 states, mainly in the South, though its production is highly threatened by the increase in popularity of artificial sweeteners like corn syrup. A hardy, drought-resistant crop, it is first pressed and its juice extracted then reduced down to a dark syrup that is thicker and more earthy than maple syrup, with a flavor reminiscent of molasses. It is wonderful drizzled on pancakes and even better on freshly baked biscuits. Order some at http://muddypondsorghum.com/

5. Visit a farmers market or join a CSA: local food suppliers are sprouting up everywhere in St. Johns County, bringing fresh, affordable produce to local residents, while keeping money and jobs in our own community. At last count, shoppers had their pick of area farmers' markets including the St. Augustine Amphitheater, the Beach Pavilion, Nocatee, County Road 210, Neptune Beach, Flagler Beach and Fernandina Beach, not to mention the granddaddy of roadside stands out in Hastings, the County Line produce stand. In addition to farmers' markets, a number of Community Supported Agriculture projects (CSAs), in which members receive a weekly box of fresh produce from a local farmer, have started up locally in the past year. If you are interested in joining a CSA or being a part of the local food revival, visit www.slowfoodusa.org or e-mail me at rvilladoniga@yahoo.com.

6. Datil Cranberry Sauce: It seems like everyone has their own version of a datil sauce, some of them highly-guarded family recipes, others new twists on a familiar favorite. But I've got to hand it to my good friends at Minorcan Datil Pepper Products who have come up with a uniquely American condiment: datil cranberry sauce. Spread it on toasted bread for a terrific turkey sandwich or clean up next year's Thanksgiving leftovers with a dabble of the sauce on just about anything you make for the special day. Minorcan Datil Pepper Products, http://www.minorcandatil.com/

7. American Spoon Peach Preserves: Toast is underrated. Toast with preserves and a dab of butter is an undervalued luxury. And the best peach preserves I have tasted come from American Spoon, a gourmet fruit and food company from Michigan. The company uses Red Haven peaches that early ripen in orchards along Lake Michigan to produce an artisanal, chunky, flavorful spread that's neither too sweet nor too tangy. To order, visit www.spoon.com.

8. Neighborhood Gardening: Feeling cramped in your back yard? Not even enough room for an herb garden in your urban confines?

Join a community garden. A new group called Citysprout is busy planning a network of neighborhood gardens, including their first one in Lincolnville. According to their Web site, the group is "dedicated to creating a productive network of community gardens throughout the neighborhoods of St. Augustine to stimulate social interaction and strengthen community sustainability." To get involved, visit www.citysprout.org.

9. Tanka Bars: On a tour of the Museum of the American Indian in Washington, D.C., this past summer, I came across an extraordinarily simple energy bar made by the Oglala Lakota tribe which combines two North American indigenous foods, prairie-fed buffalo meat and dried cranberries, into a tasty and high-protein snack that I found to be similar to a fruity beef jerky, but a whole lot better tasting than that probably sounds. Sales of the bar are creating employment opportunities for a disadvantaged tribe that faces difficult economic hardships.To purchase some for your next hike or run, visit www.tankabar.com.

10. If you read only one piece of writing focused on food issues in 2009 (aside from my column, of course), read Farmer in Chief by Michael Pollan, which was an open letter published in the New York Times in which Pollan calls on our next president to consider the far-reaching impacts that food policy has on our health, our energy independence, our national security, and our environment. It will be worth all 20 minutes it takes you to read the piece. Google "Farmer in Chief" to read a copy online.

Rum: Rendezvous with history

First Published in the St. Augustine Record
Publication Date: 12/18/08

Rum. The very sound of the word most often conjures up images of tropical drinks with little pink umbrellas. Or swashbuckling pirates, I suppose. (I've always wanted to use the word "swashbuckling" in one of my articles and finally found a way. Who knew?!)

But rum is a versatile liquor with a rich, sometimes surprising history that goes well beyond anecdotes of Hemingway's favorite daiquiri on a muggy Havana afternoon. In fact, rum might actually come into its own in the winter months, far removed from the sultry breezes of summer. It's in this colder season that rum is featured in two of my favorite cocktails: the Hot Buttered Rum and Coquito, a Puerto Rican-style eggnog.

Rum was Colonial America's alcohol of choice, and with good reason -- the triangular trade between Europe, Africa and the colonies was based on Caribbean sugar plantations, African slave labor and the end product of distilled molasses -- rum -- produced and consumed in the colonies and sold and traded in Europe. Demand for sugar and rum powered the slave trade and brought both fortune and misfortune to men in the New World. Much of New England's power and prosperity was based on their high-quality rum production (Rhode Island rum was even considered on par with gold as a currency at one point), and some historians even go as far as claiming that rum deserves some credit for inspiring the American Revolution because of resistance to the Sugar Act of 1764.

Indeed, George Washington was adamant that rum be served at his inauguration, a custom that would later be used by many "spirited" politicians looking to win close elections. Rum was such an influential product for such a long time that historian Charles A. Coloumbe even wrote a book on the subject, titled "Rum: The Epic Story of the Drink that Changed the World."

One cocktail that dates back to Colonial American times is the Hot Buttered Rum, a drink that combines butter, spices, sugar or molasses, rum and hot water, and will warm every corner of your body, even on the coldest winter's day. The aroma will also leave your kitchen smelling magical. The cocktail originated as a way to mellow out harsher rums of that time period, but it works just as well today with a number of premium rums.

Typically, aged (dark) rums are used in Hot Buttered Rums, but my favorite rum, 10 Cane, a light rum from Trinidad, is extremely well-suited as well because of its subtle vanilla and floral notes. Despite its rough and tumble origins, this is a drink that will be more successful with a premium rum, so splurge and go for the good stuff and you won't be disappointed.

Coquito is another traditional beverage that is commonly imbibed during the winter months, in particular around Christmas and New Year's. This eggnog-like drink has its roots on the island of Puerto Rico and is a celestial combination of coconut cream, milk, vanilla, egg yolks, condensed milk, evaporated milk, and spices.

The name coquito might originate from either one or two sources. The Spanish word for coconut is coco, and coquito could be a more affectionate take on the fruit's name, which is common on the island. Another derivation of the word might be the coqu, the beloved tree frog that resides in Puerto Rico's tropical forests and serves as the island's unofficial mascot. The frog produces a constant "coh-KEE" sound that inspired its name, and perhaps the creamy beverage borrows its moniker because it is equally as adored. Though the sound of drinking an amphibian is not appetizing, I have never seen a person deny themselves the pleasure of a second glass of coquito. Either way, I hope you will enjoy these winter beverages this season in the company of friends and family.

Following, you will find my own versions of these classic cocktails.

Salud!

Hot Buttered Rum

1 stick of butter (room temperature)

3/4 c brown sugar

Pinch of salt

1/2 tsp. nutmeg

1/2 tsp. cinnamon

1/2 tsp. allspice

1 vanilla bean

4 whole cloves (crushed)

2 tbsp. wild honey

2 c boiling water

1/2 c "10 Cane" or other premium rum

cinnamon sticks (for garnish)

whipped cream (for garnish)

Directions: Combine soft butter, sugar, salt, nutmeg, cinnamon, all spice, vanilla bean, cloves and honey in bowl with mixer. Refrigerate until solid. (Can be refrigerated for a week or more.)

Later: Divide butter mixture among four mugs or coffee cups. Add boiling water and rum, dividing evenly. Stir well until butter mixture is dissolved completely. Garnish with cinnamon stick and/or whipped cream. Serve hot.

Coquito

2 cans cream of coconut

2 cans condensed milk

6 oz "10 Cane" or other premium rum

1/4 tsp cinnamon

1/4 tsp ground cloves

1/8 tsp nutmeg

1 vanilla bean or 1 tsp real vanilla extract

4 egg yolks

cinnamon sticks (for garnish)

Directions: Mix all ingredients in blender. Adjust ingredients according to taste. Garnish with cinnamon stick.

How We Really Eat

(First Published in the St. Augustine Record on 16 October 2008)

I've spent a fair amount of time browsing the cookbook aisles of bookstores searching for the latest tricks that master chefs employ in their kitchens, or simply looking for something new to make on my own. What I often find is a bookshelf lined with cookbooks that feature glossy photographs but are filled with useless, unnecessarily complicated recipes.

Deglaze this, parboil that.

Sometimes a straightforward recipe's simplicity is more rewarding than fine dining that requires "training your palate" or spending hundreds of dollars on fancy new equipment you may never use again. Gee, I am so glad I asked for an electric raclette maker for Christmas last year. Is garage sale season under way yet?

Recently, I discovered a cookbook series with a very populist theme -- no-fuss, authentic recipes that have been collected by two ladies, Gwen McKee and Barbara Moseley, as they traveled across the country in search of America's uncataloged culinary heritage.

The Best of the Best State Cookbook Series documents some of each state's greatest offerings in one of the most proletarian ways I've ever seen. McKee and Moseley collected recipes from state fairs, service organizations, festivals, individuals, restaurants and group events, compiling a series of cookbooks brimming with honest food from the real people who cook it. That's not to say that you won't find some truly impressive recipes -- chilled strawberry soup, anyone?

But the heart of this volume is in the fact that the majority of the recipes are ones that any home cook will feel comfortable making and proud serving. The Florida edition is filled with recipes and interesting tidbits that capture the heart and soul of the diverse people and ingredients of the Sunshine State -- but why stop there? Buy your own copy at a bookstore or online and then collect the other 49 states' editions.

Here are two recipes from the Best of the Best of Florida Cookbook, courtesy of Quail Ridge Press (www.quailridge.com). The first is a recipe that pays tribute to South Florida's Caribbean influences, while the second, though it calls for canning, is a down-home treat that can be enjoyed chilled immediately, especially now in the dog days of our long summer.

Cheeca Lodge's Jamaican Seafood Soup

(From the Calypso Cafe)

Soup Base:

2 ounces apple-smoked bacon, chopped

1/3 cup diced yellow onion

1/2 cup diced celery

1/2 cup diced leek

2 tbsp. packed dark brown sugar

Pinch of cayenne pepper

1 ounce Jamaican jerk seasoning

2 cups fish broth

5 fresh plum tomatoes, diced

1/2 bunch fresh tarragon, chopped

Salt to taste

Croutons, sliced scallions or yogurt for garnish

Cook bacon in a saucepan. Add onion, celery, and leek. Cook over low heat for 15 minutes or until vegetables are translucent.

Add sugar and cook 3 minutes over low heat. Add cayenne pepper and jerk seasoning. Cook 1 minute. Stir in broth and tomatoes. Simmer 30 minutes. Add tarragon and salt.

Seafood:

3 ounces shrimp, coarsely chopped

3 ounces snapper, mahi mahi, or grouper, coarsely chopped

3 ounces stone crab meat, coarsely chopped

6 tbsp. butter

Cook shrimp, snapper, and crabmeat in butter over low heat until done. Place in soup bowls. Top with hot Soup Base. Garnish with croutons, sliced scallions, or yogurt.

Yields 4 servings.

Watermelon Rind Pickles

(From Let's Talk Food from A to Z)

4 pounds watermelon rinds

2 quarts plus 1 pint water, divided

4 tbsp. coarse salt

2 quarts vinegar

4 1/2 cups sugar

2 tbsp. whole cloves

10 cinnamon sticks

Use rind of a firm, not overripe, watermelon and, before weighing it, trim off outer green skin and pink flesh. Cut rind into 1 inch cubes and soak 12 hours in 2 quarts of water mixed with salt. Drain, then cover with fresh water and cook for 10 minutes. Let stand overnight in cooking water. Drain.

Combine vinegar, remaining 1 pint of water, sugar, and spices tied loosely in cheesecloth. Add drained watermelon, and boil gently for 2 hours, or until syrup is fairly thick. Remove spice bag and pack rind into hot, sterilized jars; cover with spiced vinegar to within 1/4 inch of top. Seal immediately. Makes about 3 quarts.

Flavors of the Yucatan

(First Published in the St. Augustine Record on 18 September 2008)

I spent a couple of weeks this summer eating my way across the Yucatán Peninsula in Mexico.  It’s a rough life.  The Yucatán is probably most celebrated as being home to Cancún and the Riviera Maya, as well as spectacular Mayan ruins.  And while the white sand beaches and pyramids are indeed breathtaking, I was there for the food. 

Mexico’s cuisine is much more varied and regional than many people give it credit for being.  And Yucatecan cuisine is no exception—picture a cross between Mexican standards (tacos, enchiladas, etc.) and throw in a tropical twist (lots of pork, citrus marinades, and of course, habanero peppers).  Influenced by the ancient cooking of the Maya, with borrowed ingredients from the Caribbean and beyond, and updated by new interpretations, Yucatecan cuisine is bold and yet familiar, exciting yet comforting.

Most of my time sampling the region’s extraordinary table was spent in Mérida, the charming cultural and political capital of the Yucatán.  Its romantic plazas and picturesque colonial architecture compete for one’s attention amid the food stalls, markets, and eateries that propel their competing aromas and flavors into the streets, demanding each passerby give notice.  Before exploring the region, I asked Chef David Sterling, an American who operates a highly regarded Yucatecan cooking school in Mérida and it considered the foremost expert on the region’s cuisine, for dining recommendations.  His suggestions did not disappoint and we were treated to some of the city’s most authentic cochinita pibil (pit-roasted pig in an achiote sauce) and sopa de lima (chicken and lime soup), among other memorable dishes.  Chef Sterling was generous enough to share two of his favorite recipes below.  For more information regarding his cooking school or for more of Chef Sterling’s recipes, please visit www.los-dos.com.

(Recipes courtesy Chef David Sterling, Los Dos Cooking School, Mérida, Yucatán)

X'nipek: ZESTY TOMATO TABLE SALSA

• 6 Roma tomatoes, finely chopped, drained in strainer for 20 minutes
• 1 small white onion, charred in a comal or heavy skillet, and finely chopped
• 1 chile habanero, charred, cap removed and finely chopped
• 4 Tbs. (60ml) cilantro, finely chopped
• 1/4 cup (75ml) naranja agria juice (Also known as sour orange or Seville orange. Substitute: 2 parts lime juice, 1 part each orange juice and grapefruit juice)
• Pinch sea salt

STEP 1  COMBINE DRAINED TOMATOES, onion and chile in a bowl. Refrigerate. Immediately before serving, stir in juice, salt and chopped cilantro. Check for seasonings. Bring to room temperature before serving.

NOTE: You may also substitute lime juice for the naranja agria, but this version is more particularly Yucatecan.

Sikil P'aak: VEGETABLE DIP OF TOASTED PUMPKIN SEEKS, ROASTED TOMATOES AND

• 4 cups (500g) hulled green pepitas (pumpkin seeds)
• 1 green chile habanero, charred
• 3 medium Roma tomatoes, charred on a comal or heavy skillet
• 4 large cloves garlic, charred in a flame or on a comal or heavy skillet
• 1/4 cup (75ml) juice of naranja agria (Also known as sour orange or Seville orange. Substitute: 2 parts fresh lime juice, 1 part each fresh orange juice and grapefruit juice)
• 3/4 cup (200ml) chicken broth
• 1 cup (150g) white onion, minced
• 3 Tbs. (15g) cilantro, finely chopped
• 1/8 tsp. (.625ml) canela (Substitute: Mexican cinnamon)
• 1 tsp. (5ml) salt

STEP 1  IN A HEAVY SKILLET over high flame, lightly toast the pumpkin seeds. Toss regularly during the process. They should be pale brown when finished. Remove toasted seeds to a large bowl. Allow to cool.

STEP 2  PLACE SEEDS IN A FOOD PROCESSOR and grind. Continue until the seeds turn to a fine powder that sticks loosely to the sides of the processor bowl. Use a spatula to push the congealing powder back into the processor bowl. Place toasted ground seeds in a mixing bowl until ready to use.

STEP 3  REMOVE STEM, SEED AND DEVEIN THE HABANERO. Place chile, whole tomatoes with skin and garlic in a blender, along with the juice and broth. Pulse until coarsely blended but not puréed.

STEP 4  POUR THE TOMATO MIXTURE a bit at a time into the mixing bowl containing the ground seeds. Blend with a spatula until thoroughly incorporated. If necessary, add more of the tomato mixture, mixing, until you achieve the consistency of a dip – thick but not dry.

STEP 5  ADD ONIONS, CILANTRO, CANELA and salt to taste. Stir and check for seasonings.

STEP 6  PLACE DIP in a serving bowl. Garnish with a sprig of cilantro or a whole habanero if you wish. Serve with homemade totopos (crispy fried tortilla triangles.)

Summer News and Notes

(First Published in the St. Augustine Record on 21 August 2008) 

Chicken and WHAT?

While visiting college friends recently in Washington, D.C., I stopped in for a meal at Marvin, a new restaurant in the up-and-coming U Street Corridor that once thrived as one of the nation's premier centers of African American culture and is now having fresh life breathed into it with new jazz clubs, galleries, boutiques and restaurants popping up everywhere.

What drew me to Marvin (which is named in honor of the late Soul singer Marvin Gaye) was the most interesting item on the menu: chicken and waffles. Lovers of soul food may be familiar with the whimsical dish that was popularized at Well's Supper Club restaurant in Harlem. According to tradition, people stumbling out of jazz clubs late at night were hungry but were tardy for dinner and too early for breakfast, so the cooks at Well's came up with chicken and waffles to satisfy both cravings. The dish was then taken cross-country to Los Angeles, where Roscoe's House of Chicken and Waffles, which has a loyal following by celebrity fans, made the combination a mainstream American sensation. The dish sometimes consists of a waffle topped with chopped chicken meat and gravy, but by far, the most common preparation is fried chicken on a waffle.

The latter is the version you will find at Marvin, where it is expertly prepared and artfully arranged on a plate with a side of greens. I wasn't really sure what to expect from my initial bite, as this was my first time ordering the dish anywhere, but what I found was an extraordinary combination of complementary flavors and textures -- the savory, crispy chicken melding in my mouth with a warm maple syrup-topped morsel of buttered waffle. It was down-home goodness.

If you can't make it to Marvin, try making it at home the next time you aren't sure whether you've got a hankering for breakfast or something heavier -- it's really the best of both worlds.

Marvin

2007 14th Street ,Washington, D.C.

(202) 797-7171

Authentic Pie

It would be a rotten crime not to mention to you the gem of a pizzeria I discovered in the East Village of New York City this past June. It's called Una Pizza Napoletana, and that's exactly what it is. If you are looking for the most traditional Neapolitan pizza on this side of the pond, hotfoot it to this small, casual restaurant owned by Anthony Mangieri, a young pizzaiolo who spent time in Naples perfecting his craft. There are only four pizzas from which to choose -- each one wood fired and baked in a custom-made brick oven, but you are guaranteed to leave very happy no matter which you choose, as long as you get there early enough. The place closes down when they run out of fresh dough.

We ordered a Margherita and watched as Mangieri performed his magic in front of us, as he lovingly does with every single pizza ordered at his eatery, one by one. With a deft touch and the finest, freshest ingredients, he assembled our pizza and placed it in the oven as the wood hissed and flared, adding its own smoky, slightly charred personality to the masterpiece. We devoured it in a matter of seconds, praising its crisp yet chewy crust, all the while planning our next trip to New York City.

Una Pizza Napoletana

349 East 12th Street, New York, NY

(212) 477-9950

The Great Cookie Caper

(First Published in the St. Augustine Record on 17 July, 2008)

Cookies are humble, comforting treats no kid (or kid at heart) can resist.  We have Sixteenth Century colonists to thank for bringing cookies to America, though the term “cookie” did not appear until later, when the Dutch word koekje was Anglicized into “cookie.” Early colonial cookies included gingerbread and macaroons, but soon enough, all manner of ingredients, some New World and some Old, were being added to the mix. Today, such things as peanut butter and M & M’s are common ingredients found in the cookie aisle.  Yet, the modern cookie, loaded with sugar and butter, did not appear until the 1800s when America began its love affair with these simple indulgences.

Though everyone seems to have their preferred type or recipe, perhaps no other cookie is as celebrated in our country as the chocolate chip version.  In fact, it is estimated that half of all cookies baked in America today are chocolate chip cookies.  Interestingly, the recipe for this cherished cookie came about by accident in 1933 when Ruth Wakefield, who owned the Toll House Inn in Whitman, Massachusetts, dropped chocolate morsels into her famous sugar cookie batter.  The details of the origin of the chocolate chip cookie are unclear because there are two versions, one by the Nestlé Company (now the owner of the Toll House cookie recipe) and the Toll House Inn.  In Nestlé’s version, Ms. Wakefield ran out of baker’s chocolate for her chocolate cookies and substituted broken pieces of semi-sweet chocolate, hoping it would melt evenly into the batter.  It didn’t, and what resulted was a cookie with chocolate “chips” that became so popular that even the soldiers stationed abroad became obsessed with them when their families sent them care packages filled with the cookies.  As word of and demand for the cookies spread, its popularity was cemented.  In the Toll House Inn’s version, semi-sweet chocolate dropped from a shelf and shattered in the sugar cookies’ mixing bowl, and not wanting to waste the batter, Ms. Wakefield, who was a well-regarded baker and already had her own cookbook at the time, baked and sold the accidental cookies to approving patrons, and the rest, as they say, is history.

Recently, I asked a number of friends to make the supreme sacrifice of participating with me in an unofficial blind taste-test of 24 locally baked cookies of all shapes, sizes, and types.  We scoured several local shops, restaurants, and bakeries in search of the perfect cookie.  I know, it’s a tough task, but somebody’s gotta do it.  Though perfection can be unattainable, a few came pretty close. Here’s what we discovered:

Best Chocolate Chip Cookie:

If you are looking for a cookie loaded with deep, rich chocolate, look no further than Claude’s Chocolates.  The artisanal chocolate shop on Hypolita Street in downtown St. Augustine has two types of cookies they bake, and true to their specialty, chocolate is the supreme star of both.  There is certainly nothing plain about their chocolate chip cookie, which comes studded with their homemade semi-sweet chocolate.  Try heating it slightly in the oven at home for a crispy, gooey cookie experience.  But for true chocolate lovers, splurge and go for the double chocolate pecan cookie, a rich and decadent combination of semi-sweet chocolate dough and dark chocolate pieces with just enough pecans to give it a nutty, crunchy texture.  This cookie, which reminded us of a crispy brownie, leaves you in a semi-conscious state of euphoria for hours.

Best Traditional Cookie:

Just around the corner from Claude’s Chocolates on St. George Street, the Bunnery serves up a number of old-fashioned cookies hot from their oven.  We sampled rich and buttery pecan shortbread cookies, intensely flavored ginger cookies, crumbly peanut butter cookies, and simple sugar cookies.  But the clear winner was the delicious oatmeal raisin cookie, which had a buttery flavor complimented with hints of vanilla and cinnamon and enough plump raisins and rolled oats to hold the cookie together.  If you can’t decide on which cookie to sample, do like we did and buy one of each!

Best Original Combination Cookie:

Out at the beach, Café 11 bakes homemade cookies daily and surprises diners with a variety of interesting ingredient combinations.  We fell in love with the chocolate chip-coconut-macadamia cookie which juxtaposed tradition (gooey chocolate chips) with laid-back coastal attitude (coconut flakes and macadamia nut pieces).  This addictive cookie displayed everything we were looking for: soft texture with a crispy ridge and bottom—perfect for dipping in milk; rich, complimentary flavors that hit us with childhood nostalgia; and a balance of both lightness and substance on our fingers and in our mouths.  If you are looking for a completely satisfying cookie experience, this is it.

Coming Soon:

Urban and Community Gardens

Bistro de Leon

Florida Grass Fed Beef

More Good Eats and New Food Finds

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